10 replies to this topic

[Bagman]

I have a very small leak in the A/C discharge hose (the one coming from the pump to the condenser at the front of the car), where the rubber part of the hose connects to the metal-only part of the hose. Any idea how to get a complete replacement hose? The auto shops here don't know. One guy suggested I take it to a hose fabrication place and they could probably crimp a new rubber section onto that part of the hose.

All of the A/C hoses seem to be the same style where they have rubber sections crimped onto a main metal hose of some sort.

Anyone have any ideas? know any websites that specialize in mopar A/C? know any parts secreted away?

Your friend in hot drives to Chicago this weekend,
-Bagman

[sigmfsk]

Bagman said:

Anyone have any ideas? know any websites that specialize in mopar A/C?

I plan on using these guys to rebuild my Monaco A/C box, and using them for a new R134A compressor, hoses, etc.
Classic Auto Air - Air Conditioning & Heating for 70’s & Older Cars & Trucks.

Here are some Mopar Muscle articles about them:
Refurbishing Air Conditioning - How To - Mopar Muscle Magazine
Restore Your Mopar's A/C System - Tech Articles - Mopar Muscle Magazine

I bet they can help with any hoses you need.

your friend in staying cool,
arthur

[Bagman]

Funny, those are the exact 3 websites I visited before posting. My thought now is just to put two zip ties on it and cover it all in some epoxy so it will hold together a little longer until I can find a place to repair it near me.

[country bunker]

Great thread!

Not to take away from the original question, But Ive got one..

So last year I bought a R-134 conversion can. It was at the local hardware. Seems like its just a "special" oil to add to the system for the R-134. I put that in, and 3/4 cans of R-134a. While I was putting it in, everything would cycle, and work great. The car blew cold as hell. But once I removed the can, it wouldnt blow as cold. But it also wouldnt take any more fluid, leading me to believe its full. Also there was no bubbles in the sight glass.

Anywhase, as soon as I would put the car in drive, and/or put any rpm's to the engine. the system would stop blowing any cold air. But after a drive to work, and a few hours later on break, Id go out and it would blow semi cold while idleing. I havnt messed with it since. Its got a slow leak where bagman's seems to be, but not at the rubber. Its where the metal part of the hose screws into the condensor.

Anyone have this happen to them? Ive had people tell me its a pressure switch, and others tell me it has something to do with vacum. I dont wanna replace the whole system, if not needed. Besides as I said it blows VERY cold while im adding fluid. To the point all the windows fog up its so cold inside.

Another ? would be about the leak. Is there an epoxy or something I can put on the threads that will hold to the pressure of the system? Or does it use O rings, or gaskets, and I just have to get a new one.

thanks
-zac

[Bagman]

Maybe yours is overcharged?

What is the procedure for adding coolant? The manual has the professional correct way, but I'm looking more for the garage way. Just hook the can to the blue inlet and run the A/C?

[country bunker]

Well at first thats what the mechanic thought. but then he found out that the system takes 4 pounds to fully charge. I only put in 36 or so ounces, so it cant be overcharged.

Theres a lil hose that comes with the can when you buy it. First you have to shake the can real good. Then take the hose and attach it to the spicket on the compressor. Theres 2 places to attach it, but you have to make sure its at the compressor. It could blow up if you attach it to the other spicket in the pressure side line, located behind the compressor. Then take the can and screw it onto the other side of the hose. The hose punchures the can releasing the coolant. But the whole time its connected to the car you have to shake the can vigorously to build pressure to force it into the system. The can will vibrate, or hiss a lil till its all gone.

[Bagman]

Just to clarify since we don't want to blow anything up, at least for the small blocks, I believe the wrong spigot to attach to is on the front side of the compressor, inline with the tube running to the condenser (part of the fat cylinder thing along the metal tube). The right port is on the back side of the compressor, the low pressure coming back from the evaporator inside the car. Looks like a lipstick container directly attached to the compressor with a spigot on the end.

Is it turned around on the big block?

[Ford jockey]

Depending if your using the old R-12 or have the conversion in the car determines the a/c hoses. You will need barrier hose for the new stuff. If you find a good hydraulic or truck shop they probably can make a new section . some radiator shops alos specialize in these hoses too. I just finish a vintage air install and used a truck place to crimp all my hoses.

[Bagman]

Ok, so I found a place to build a new hose for me, and I put a new drier on. I took it to a place to have the A/C system evacuated and charged with R134a, but the system doesn't seem to cool worth a crap now. The book says to add "5lbs of R12", and my understanding is to use 80% of that for R134a (system was converted a long time ago). The system isn't cooling all that well, definitely not as well as it did once upon a time. Anyone know the right amount or the right pressures on each side should be? I could just start subtracting and adding refrigerant until it works best, but thought I'd ask for experience first.

[Monaco74]

I know this doesn't help any, but these problems are exactly why I restored my AC to original specs. I'm running R12 baby! I either replaced everything, or had it restored, then put in good 'ol R12. I had forgotten how well R12 worked! Ah.. it reminds me of growing up in the 1980's when everyone used R12. And yes, I am prepared for a torrent of politically correct/ enviro-concious scrutiny. But look at it this way, I'm not doing anything that wasn't done by Chrysler back in 1974. And yes, it was expensive.

[Bagman]

It seems like it is working ok for now. I can't keep it at the lowest setting or my wife complains, a good metric in my opinion. The only thing weird is that I think the compressor might be going bad. The engine shakes fairly violently when it idles with the A/C running. If I push on the gas a bit to give it some RPM, it seems to be ok. I've had it die several times at stoplights, and I even increased the idle speed set screw quite a bit to try and compensate. Didn't use to do that.