16 replies to this topic

[sigmfsk]

I sent off a box of parts to Restoration Specialties:
Restoration Specialties & Supply, Inc.

in the hope that they could match many of the items against their inventory. I had a real need for glass u-channel, door weatherstrip, and beltline weatherstrip. I haven't yet heard back from them.

Several of us are looking for u-channel, and Ford Jockey posted a great note here:
http://www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/bluesmobiles/8279-bagmans-bluesmobile-3.html#post113855

> I used universal u-channel for my car it works perfectly once you trim it. The key is
> working out the corners and pushing it into place. It will take some finger strength or a
> wooden tool. This has the correct flocked material on the rubber. I ran it long down into
> the door and ran the window up and down to make sure it seated firmly in place.
> Probably a wooden wedge would help I still have the rear doors to do.
>
> I went out to the shop and found a package 1 for each window. The ones I have are
> made by Precision Replacement Parts. PRP 1-800-367-8241 part number 750457
> 96inches.
Precision Replacement Parts - Welcome
> I'd check with them first as the fit like OEM.

This seemed such an important piece of information, I wanted to get it in its own thread. I'll try to build upon it when I hear back from Restoration Specialties.

[sigmfsk]

Still haven't heard from restoration specialties.

I'm working with Ford Jockey to verify the part number of his u-channel. The PRP folks couldn't match the number.


But I did find (and order) the "Body Bumper Kit 1972-74 Dodge C-Body" from these guys:
MegaParts - Reproduction, NOS and Used Mopar Muscle Car Parts

Looks like a lot of good stuff in there. I found it from this page:
C-Body DryDock: Forums / General Tech / Hood/fender thingies

your friend in a living room full of parts,
arthur

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[sigmfsk]

The previous post listed BBK31W for $45.00
It looks like the same kit is also available here
Rocket Restorations
same part number, same price.

Searching for BBK31W provides several places offering the kit. Looking at those sites still doesn't show much available for Monacos. I saw door lock knobs, battery cables and battery tie downs.


I looked for a firewall gasket set for a 74 Monaco, and couldn't find anything.

I read this thread:
C-Body DryDock: Forums / Detroit Muscle Tech Parts Request / DMT Member Services - The Rules, You Must Read Before Posting!
that talks about
Detroit Muscle Technologies Online Store
Not only can the shop make a gasket set based on taking them actual hardware for which a gasket is needed, I can get a set for free (to the first person to provide the c-body hardware needed for measurements for a particular set).

Here
C-Body DryDock: Forums / Detroit Muscle Tech Parts Request / Introduction - About Detroit Muscle Technologies
the owner writes
> ...I need the housing or part that the gasket goes in...I need to see the material
> and the shape but I actually measure the HOUSING to create the gasket design. Trying
> to measure a gasket is like trying to measure a rubber band or a balloon.

The business is pretty close to me. I'll see about taking my firewall stuff to them (I can think of steering column, main A/C box, small A/C box) so they can use them for templates for gaskets. I'll post info here and on c-body drydock.

your friend in good seal deals,
arthur

[sigmfsk]

I received the "Body Bumper Kit 1972-74 Dodge C-Body" kit, and I just don't see how this kit is much use at all.

It seems to have the correct pair of bolt and rubber bumpers against which the hood closes (pic 1).

It seems to have an incorrect pair of hood wedges (pic 2).

And it gets worse from there. I can't determine what any of the remaining pieces are for (pic 3).
The closest row are those pieces which have a pair (second piece not shown). That thing on the far left I'm almost convinced is not for a 74 Monaco. What the heck is that dude?

The three items on the right on the rear row are just "singles". I don't know what they're for either. The one item on the left on the rear row is the bottom portion of the dry rotted rubber bumper that was attached the corner of my 74 trunk-lid. I circle it and point to an item on the first row that may be its replacement. I'm thinking the rubber couldn't have compressed that much (or could it)? Maybe its designed to be cut-down to the correct usable thickness.

Any thoughts of how to use any of these pieces is appreciated. I'm bummed that I didn't spend more time looking at the picture of the kit before purchasing; I just expected that it would all be obvious once I received it.

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[sigmfsk]

We have so much good information being shared on the board, I sometimes don't know where to best respond.

Ford Jockey writes here:
http://www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/bluesmobiles/10217-theres-new-marin-county-sheriff-town-3.html#post115662
about his u-channel progress
> So far the back doors are harder but it takes some patience..:mad:. i'm going to try a
> different attack with the other door. The problem is getting clearance as the window gets
> tighter in the channel when you lower it.
but I thought it better to respond here, because for reference purposes, it would keep the "u-channel" story all in one place. I'll PM ford and let me know I put some info here.

I'm thinking it might be such a chore to replace the u-channel in the rear doors with the windows in position, it may be worth the trouble to first remove the windows. Even with the window in it's lowest position, it's still quite a ways up in the u-channel. And if I understand correctly, Ford's u-channel is flat rubber stock, that he bends into a u, so it will be even harder to install that original u-channel (that we believe isn't available or reproduced).

So here is some information on how I removed the windows on my 74 doors, and what I would do differently if I had to do it again. The front and rear windows are each attached to the window regulator via two large screws. The head of one can be seen in pic 1.

The screw is part of an assembly, the pieces of which are shown in pic 2. The large plastic piece that houses the captive nut is pushed into a large hole in the glass (this piece is on the far side of the glass - the side closest to the outside of the door). The axle portion of this piece pushes through to the close side of the glass. Then the middle "twister" plastic piece is pushed onto the axle on the close side of the glass (pic 3). Then rotated into position, so it can't come off (pic 4). Fully assembled, but without the glass, it looks like pic 5.

Removing each screw was a nightmare. The screw has inevitably rusted against the nut, at least enough so that when the screw is turned, the entire assembly spins with it. There's nothing locking it into position.

The captive nut does have two locating holes (pic 6). Using a set of snap-ring pliers (similar to that shown in pic 7) to grip one of the holes, along with a few hours of swearing, I was finally able to remove the pieces. I can't find anyone that makes reproductions (I heard from reproduction specialties that they do NOT have them - this was before I sent them my giant box of parts to check out).

I couldn't fit long-handled snap ring pliers in the small space available between the glass and the door skin, so I had to use "micro" pliers, and the torque of the screw would often just pull the tiny snap ring plier jaw out of the locating hole. If I had to do it again, I would make a special tool to hold the assembly in place (pic 8 ). The circle around the screw hole would help because the screw sticks through the assembly a bit when fully installed. This would center the tool over the assembly, then all that would remain was to rotate the tool until the prongs fit int the receptacles. In reality, the tool would remain in position, while the assembly was rotated via the screw until the assembly lined up with the prongs.

I couldn't make the tool before I got the first assembly removed (because I wouldn't know the dimensions of how to make it), but now that I have one removed, we could use it for a template.

your friend in working windows with good u-channel,
arthur

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Edited by sigmfsk, 12 September 2010 - 06:02 AM.
spelling

[TK826]

Quote from megaparts about the body bumper kit....

Quote

Sorry [we have] nothing showing where everything goes.
This kit has bumpers for the door, trunk and hood.
The small bumpers [include] a few [for the] license plate and the others may be
ash tray or glove box.
There are some other bumpers that I am not sure where they go.

Personally, I'm wondering if a couple of those
(perhaps the two on the bottom right of the photo) will fit in the rear fuel door.

[Ford jockey]

Okay I've not loaded up the pictures but your right it is a PITA putting the
U-channel in the rear doors. Here is some info that works.

This Universal channel is slightly larger than the original so it takes some extra work to get it in. Ideally startnig form a blank slate would be best but my car is on the road. A few things that make the project easiler some silicon product Armour All or even the White grease in a can. It helped to make the channel slide easier between the window glass and the track.

1. start with the corners onthe door frame. This new stuff will have tendency to curve around the frame. Well after installing it and letting it sit it still wasn't right. I removed it and then made a slight swipe of a razor to make a relief on the back of the rubber. It was better but still not right. I thne cut two small notches so that the channel formed a right angle. That worked the best to get it into the corners. (We didn't do it to the front door but it would work there too).

2. Once you got the corners done you halfway home. Begin to puit hte U-channel into the slot It had a little groove and slide it down the track toward the bottom of the door. Some spray behind the rubber will make it slide easier.

3. You will finally get to a point where it just doesn't want to more. If you have an extra set of hands continue to push it in the track it will start to bind against the glass. I found that by moving the window up and down and up and down it will finally eased by. Its going to take a little work. We did loosen the window slightly by undoing a couple of the adjustments. I did not touch the regulator and don't recommend it unless your know what your doing.

4. Once you get the channel bottomed on the track its safe to cut the excess of about 4-5 inches off. Go back up the track and make sure its in the track. You can run the window up and dow to help seat it better. Hey if its wrong you can fix it. You do not need any adhesive this stuff stays in place.

5. Repaet the same process for the other side and your almost done.

6. I took the opportunity to remove 30 years of crub from the section of glass in the door you don't see. I also got in between the whiskers and removed a ton of crud there. The less junk in the remaining trim will prolong its life.

7. Lube your tracks & regluator with the white grease and any other internals while eveythings apart.

8. I made new plastic barriers to cove the doors before putting the panels back. A little tackey adhesive and things are like new again.

9. run the windows up to the top and let them sit tight for a day or so and your done.


i will try to post picturs shortly.

[Ford jockey]

sigmfsk said:

I received the "Body Bumper Kit 1972-74 Dodge C-Body" kit, and I just don't see how this kit is much use at all.

It seems to have the correct pair of bolt and rubber bumpers against which the hood closes (pic 1).

It seems to have an incorrect pair of hood wedges (pic 2).

And it gets worse from there. I can't determine what any of the remaining pieces are for (pic 3).
The closest row are those pieces which have a pair (second piece not shown). That thing on the far left I'm almost convinced is not for a 74 Monaco. What the heck is that dude?

The three items on the right on the rear row are just "singles". I don't know what they're for either. The one item on the left on the rear row is the bottom portion of the dry rotted rubber bumper that was attached the corner of my 74 trunk-lid. I circle it and point to an item on the first row that may be its replacement. I'm thinking the rubber couldn't have compressed that much (or could it)? Maybe its designed to be cut-down to the correct usable thickness.

Any thoughts of how to use any of these pieces is appreciated. I'm bummed that I didn't spend more time looking at the picture of the kit before purchasing; I just expected that it would all be obvious once I received it.

I'll see if mine are in place most of them are to keep the hood from vibrating, squeaking and moving side to side (the spring loaded ones do that) The front ones should be screwed into place and then if possible hit with a weld.I had one that kept loosening. later model 76-77 had the spring loaded wedges.

[sigmfsk]

Ford jockey said:

i will try to post pictures shortly.

That'll be awesome; it's great to hear how well the u-channel is working for you. The door weatherstripping on my 76 is pretty good, but the u-channel is old and crumbly. The driver front door window doesn't even roll up all the way without manually aligning the door glass with my hand (the glass flops inward as it rolls up because the u-channel doesn't support the window correctly).

Being that it sounds more difficult to replace the u-channel in the rear doors, and that the channel in my rear doors seems less worn, I may leave that there and just replace the fronts.


Regarding the body bumper kit:
> later model 76-77 had the spring loaded wedges.
I just don't know what's going on with those parts. My 76 engine compartment hood wedges (pic 1 - passenger side looking rearward) look the same as the 74 (pic 2 - driver side looking forward). The entire engine bay of the 76 is shown in pic 3.

> The front ones should be screwed into place and then if possible hit with a weld.I had
> one that kept loosening.

That's a good tip! I wondered what kept them from spinning around. I guess also I could put a nut on the bolt, then when the bolt was adjusted correctly, tighten the nut against the radiator yoke.

thanks,
arthur

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[sigmfsk]

Ford Jockey sent me some pictures of his u-channel work. He writes:

-----
1066 [pic 1] & 1067 [pic 2] show the new u-channel in the lower portion of the door.(1066) I ran it all the way down the channel before cutting it off. I suppose one could leave a little extra in the event the upper corners on the door frame wear out again. (1067 [pic 2]) shows the hardest part getting it past the glass in the track. We used some silicon lube and just kept working the window up and down while sliding it. It will go down a bit at the time.

I threw in a few of the paint on the door edges etc. the rocker panels and under the door sill are black as you can see the white is only on the outside of the door and not anywhere else.

Get them up and I can send you some captions....as you can see the old ones were in 3 pieces. I used some new plastic (from Home Depot) to make door liners. I ran then ran up under the upper panel ledge, where the interior panel hooks on. A little spray adhesive and it was done.
-----

I also asked him about the specifics of the CHP paint scheme. From discussion with TK826, I learned that even though the CHP lower front door is white on the outside, the lower front door is black on the inside. And this is shown in these pics, too. Some of these pics show the plastic door liner work as well as the paint scheme, so I just post all the pics here.

Ford, Do I understand correctly that the replacement u-channel is U shaped (shown in pic 3), but that it is one straight piece with no bends (this means that it's a little trouble to get in the corners of the door frame - but you don't have to bend a straight flat piece of rubber into a U)

I don't see the part number on the pic of the plastic bag, can you check / send a pic of the number? I haven't had luck with PRP recognizing the part number 75045

Thanks for sharing the pics of your sweet ride, and helping out with the u-channel info. This is great info.
/arthur

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[Ford jockey]

The u-channel comes in a 96 inch length. The original was all in one piece but as you can see mine was broken into three pieces. Pictures 3&4 show both sides of the new channel out of the package. You fold it and then begin to get it in to the car. We centered it on the top of the frame so equal portions draped down. Start at the upper corners it doesn't matter if it the front or rear. We did find by making a small notch on both side the corners squared easier and it went in better. The idea is to not cut the material completely just enough so you can make a 45 degree square corner. We found this was the best solution. The orginal pictures had the part number its universal 96 inch u-channel.

Pic#1 the track in the door where it narrows to the glass. This is the bottom we left he channel long until finished before cutting,

Pic#2 the point where its gets hard pushing the channel in beyond the window.

Pic#3-5 nice new stuff

Pic#8 old broken u-channel mine was in several pieces its comes out .

When you have all of this a part its time to clean out the door bottoms. Make sure
the drains holes are open. That usually where the broke pieces usually end up blocking the holes.

[sigmfsk]

Over the last few weeks, I've been going round and round with PRP phone support and the PRP web page, looking for a part number that they accept for the u-channel. I got Ford Jockey to send me a pic of the label (pic 1), and was finally prepared for an all-out battle with PRP on the phone, but turned out that all is needed is to ask for

"75 [space] 0457"
instead of
"750457"

Their web-site also needs a space to match the part. But once I included the critical space, they found them and said they were $7.98 each. I ordered two (one for each front window).

Mine were packaged a little differently from Ford's (pic 2).

This looks like really nice stuff. It comes flat, but its molded so that the sides want to fold along the appropriate line.

I think this tip from Ford Jockey will ease the installation:
> We did find by making a small notch on both side the corners squared easier and it went
> in better. The idea is to not cut the material completely just enough so you can make a
> 45 degree square corner. We found this was the best solution.

Thanks, Ford!

Regarding other parts, I spoke with Restoration Specialties (who've had my box of parts to match for three months) and they said to call back next week...

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[Nickels]

I have been looking rubber that holds the glass in the front door and of course keeps the water out. I drive my bluesmobile all over the country and always seem to get caught in some serious weather. Who is the best source for this replacement? Thanks

[sigmfsk]

Nickels said:

I have been looking rubber that holds the glass in the front door and of course keeps the water out. I drive my bluesmobile all over the country and always seem to get caught in some serious weather. Who is the best source for this replacement? Thanks

Hi Nickels:
I tend away from writing "glass half empty" things on the board, so I haven't updated here in a while, but I do have some tentatively promising news.

In June of 2010 I sent restoration specialties a box of parts to see what they could match up. It was about two-dozen items and included:
- door weatherstripping
- door beltline weatherstripping (cat whiskers - what I think you are referring to in your post)
- door u-channel

In October 2010, I wrote:
> Regarding other parts, I spoke with Restoration Specialties (who've had my box of parts
> to match for three months) and they said to call back next week...

I've been calling them every other week or so since then, and it's the same story - they're almost done. But this week I was a little more forceful and I got this information out of them:
They can provide replacement parts for all the stuff I sent except for a few items (like hood to cowl strip). I said "that's great! What are the part numbers? What does each cost? What do I tell people to order?" And they don't have part numbers or pricing yet. They were supposed to e-mail that info the same day, but nothing yet...

I'm guessing a few more weekly chats with them and I might get some info. How about I'll keep calling every week, and if we don't have a complete solution by end of February, I'll post my contact information at restoration specialties, and then we can all politely pester him to get moving.

Maybe instead of beltine weatherstripping, you were talking about the glass run u-channel (the stuff that fits inside the frame of the door that the glass rolls up into). Restoration specialties said that they'd be able to provide u-channel specifically to fit based on the sample I sent them, but if you want u-channel right away, earlier in this thread Ford Jockey has some great information on some generic u-channel that worked great for him. I bought some of the generic stuff and it looks great, but haven't used it yet. I'm a long way from installing windows in doors, or installing doors on the car.

your friend in thinking 7 months is long time for a parts request to still be unfilled,
arthur

[country bunker]

Awesome news Arthur!! Sad to hear its taking so long... But atleast it sounds like theyll have em! Keep us updated for sure!

[sigmfsk]

It's a Christmas miracle!

Here are some part numbers and prices for the items I sent Restoration Specialties.
Restoration Specialties & Supply, Inc.

These are all for a 1974 Dodge Monaco 4-door sedan, although much will work on all 74-77 c-body monacos.

I include pics of many items. The pics aren't great quality, but should be good enough to match up what someone is looking for.

Please post an update here if you get any of the weatherstripping / u-channel / belt-line weatherstripping. The u-channel looks like it doesn't need to be folded to fit in the channel, unlike the PRP product, but it's not a custom fit for the door, so I bet it still needs to be notched like Ford Jockey discusses earlier.


1. clip that holds the trim down over the front windshield and rear window
1. Part #13569-$.75/each

2. clip that holds horizontal body trim
2. Part #784867- $.85/each

3. clip that holds horizontal body trim
3. Part #C75Z6540248B- $1.50/each

4. clip that holds horizontal body trim
4. Part #11190-$1.10/each

5. rubber bumper on fender (this is right side) that hood closes against
5. Part $11-136- $2.00/each

6. bumper that hood rests against. screws into radiator support.
6. Part #754142- $3.30/each

7. hood to cowl - with black clips
7. N/A

8 & 9 belt-line weatherstrip
8.& 9.- No #, New Kit- $125.00-set of 4

10. trunk weatherstrip - this glues to body
10- Part #96010- $3.00/ft

11 & 12 front door u-channel
11.& 12.- Part #AS990029- $3.50/ft

13. driver rear door weatherstrip - with white clips
14. driver front door weatherstrip - with white clips
13 &14.- New Part #- $200.00/set

15. driver rear door u-channel
[nothing listed. I'm guessing it's the same part number as for the front door]

16. looking for the two felt/rubber pieces that the glass rests against. This bracket is for the driver front door.
16. No Part #, $1.00/each

17. rubber trunk bumper. the trunk has two of these bumpers that snap into the trunk lid. This bumper is missing the nipple that snaps into the trunk (it broke off)
17. Part #4447, $1.65

18. clip that holds the a-pillar trim to the a-pillar
18. N/A

19. this piece of plastic snaps onto the wheel-well in the engine compartment - used to hold the wiring harness
19. Part #12138- $1.10/each

20. piece that attaches the glass to the window regulator (2 per glass)
20. $5/set

21. clip that holds the turn signal/headlight wiring harness to the headlight mounting assembly.
21. N/A

It took a while to get the info, but you can't beat custom-made door weatherstripping and beltline weatherstripping! If I recall earlier conversations correctly, they found a pretty good match for u-channel and didn't need to custom make that part.

Tell them Arthur sent you!

your friend in keeping out the rain,
arthur

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[sigmfsk]

sigmfsk said:

I looked for a firewall gasket set for a 74 Monaco, and couldn't find anything.

I read this thread:
C-Body DryDock: Forums / Detroit Muscle Tech Parts Request / DMT Member Services - The Rules, You Must Read Before Posting!
that talks about
Detroit Muscle Technologies Online Store
Not only can the shop make a gasket set based on taking them actual hardware for which a gasket is needed, I can get a set for free (to the first person to provide the c-body hardware needed for measurements for a particular set).

Nothing really happening here. I spoke with the owner, who seemed interested, but it's been a few months and I guess he's really busy.

Unlike weatherstripping, beltline weatherstripping, and u-channel, I don't think a lack of firewall gaskets will slow me down too much. I think I can just make some gaskets from materials at home depot, like Mopar Muscle in pic 1.

your friend in pestering people for the important things, but not pestering too hard on the less important things,
arthur

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