218 replies to this topic

[sigmfsk]

Hi all:
I'm excited to report that I now have the solid foundation for a work-in-progress.

Look what showed up at my house! The Marin County K-Code 1974 Dodge Monaco 4-door sedan w/ 440 from this post:
http://www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/bluesmobiles-sale/9947-usa-bluesmobile-sale-oregon.html

I had brief contact with Jamie after he posted about selling it, and then lost touch with him. After some internet detective work, I ended up finding a work fax number for Jamie's sister's husband - who called me back, as he was helping to sell the car! I ended up buying the car sight-unseen, just as Jamie had done when he bought it years ago. Jamie did a great job protecting this find from the scrap yard, and I hope to continue his quest to restore the car to bluesmobile glory.

Here are some introduction pics:

My favorite - upon arrival: a contrast in desires. Would you rather have car A or car B?

pics at Jamie's with just enough detail to show the police goodies:

14o mph speedo

oil pressure / water temperature gauge, and steering wheel with bluesmobile silver trim ring

no wood on door panels

orange dual-snorkel 440 air cleaner (with narrow angle), and dual-diaphragm brake booster

turns out these are the original wheels, rings, and who knows how old HR70-15 B.F.Goodrich pursuit radial tires

rust isn't that bad - and it includes the jack


and then some pics as it was being sent


Its going to be a bluesmobile, but not 100% screen accurate. For example, it has both left and right spotlight mounts. I'm not going to remount the left spotlight to put it in the lower (bluesmobile correct, but actual police incorrect) pillar location. And I'm going to leave the right spotlight on. If the real bluesmobile can change door panels, fuel door lettering, and white/black paint schemes on the fly, I'm not going to worry about an extra spotlight. It will give the passenger something to fiddle with. scatpack01 convinced me to stay with the 440
http://www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/bluesmobiles/9933-engine-swap-engine-compartment-dimensions.html
I'm looking at FAST XFI (that has traction control capability) to keep the power to the ground.
And KewanneTypeR phrased it well here:
http://www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/bluesmobiles/2448-c-body-headers.html#post109799
> Any hot-rodder worth his beans knows that a serious engine hop-up using stock iron
> exhaust manifolds is a waste of money. Elwood knew this, as he was called by Jake,
> "Mr. Hot-Rodder!"
So I'm going to put in a dose of Elwood approved hot-rod stuff. The engine/transmission will be newer technology, and high HP will require headers, but I don't think any of that will be externally visible. I'm contemplating putting wider tires on the rear - as wide as I can fit without needing to beat on the sheet metal. I'll need to do some test fitting and see what will fit, and how it will look.

The VIN shows it to be a K-code police car, but the fender tag does not show the A38 option. Here are the fender tag codes:

Mopar Fender Tag Decoder

Decoding of Fender Tag: Botttom to Top, Left to Right

Code Description
E86 440-4 Barrel High Preformance
D34 TorqueFlite Automatic Transmission
DK41 D = Dodge Polara / Monaco
K = Police
41 = 4 Door Sedan
U4D U = 440 275HP(net) 1-4BBL 8 CYL
4 = 1974
D = Belvidere, IL, USA
200000 Sequence Number '200000'
999 Paint Code: Unknown At This Time
A1G6 Trim Grade/Style/Color
A = A Class
1 = Cloth and Vinyl Bench
G6 = White and Green
999 Upper Door Frame: Unknown At This Time
325 Date Built: 3 / 25 / 1974
K53168 Order Number: K53168
999 Roof Type OR Color: Unknown At This Time
U Built to Specifications for USA Order
F33 LH 6" spotlight
F35 RH 6"spotlight
F43 Unknown At This Time
F58 Road Runner Reinforce Weld
G11 Tinted Glass All
G62 Unknown At This Time
H41 Heated w/ Upper Vent
L25 Trunk Compartment Light
N95 Nox Exhaust Emission Control
V02 Two Tone Paint
Y39 Special Order 69-71
END End of Codes

The rear suspension does not have a sway bar.
The axle is a 9.25" 2.71 without positraction / sure-grip / true-trac.
It DOES have the police non-ISO axle mounting.

Anybody know what F43 or G62 indicate?

F58 "road runner reinforce weld" sounds interesting and confusing. I found some other pages about F58:

Mopar Option Codes Worldwide
F58 RR C/Member Reinforcement Welds

Broadcast Vin Fender Tag Decoder for Mopar Dodge Chrysler Plymouth
F58 RR reinforce weld

Plymouth Fury State Patrol Car - 1978 - Pictures 07IRI081805969
F58 - Rear Crossmember Reinforced/welded

I'll be posting more as I dig in.

your friend in sending posts and actually having a car to apply the information to,
arthur

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[Steam McQueen]

Arthur ... you DOG you LOL!!! Way to go, man. What a great car. It has such a Bluesmobile vibe to it already. Looks like the Good Ole Boys got the back window. :o

And thanks to Jamie for selling it to a fan!

[PITT]

Congratulation, one truth Blusmobile 74 440!!!

[sigmfsk]

Amongst the cigarette packs pull tabs and trash I found a few wadded up patrol logs - they seem to be unused and not just faded. I attach a pic of the best one. Its dated 4/77. It even has a log for the gas guage. Most Monacos just had the standard gas gauge.

It has a knob for "lock - fast idle", that allows a small increase in the minimum throttle opening.

Anybody know what this metal attached to the floor could be?

your friend in discovery,
arthur

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[Mr Mercer]

Nice score , and that metal looks like it's from a fire extinguishure bracket . Odd place for one .

[sigmfsk]

Mr Mercer said:

...that metal looks like it's from a fire extinguishure bracket . Odd place for one .

Good eye! It can see it clearly now that I know what it is, but I don't know that I ever would have guessed.

> Odd place for one
I've never seen one there, either, but I guess it might be considered out of the way. Cops weren't usually putting on the cruise control and stretching their legs around.

The Texas Mile
TEXAS MILE // OFFICIAL SITE // 3 DAYS, 1 MILE: NO SPEED LIMIT
requires a
> ...handheld fire extinguisher... mounted within easy reach of the Driver.

I guess I know where I'll mount it now!

thanks,
arthur

[Steam McQueen]

sigmfsk said:

Anybody know what F43 or G62 indicate?

Fingo?





Couldn't resist that one. I don't know what they stand for. The F43 is in the same row with the spotlights? Does the "F" signify "Fleet" in this case?

http://www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum2/public/style_emoticons/default/icon_cool.gif

[Beefmalone]

Mopars have a set of hipo cast iron manifolds that flow better than stock but you still get decent ground clearance. just an option. I like headers, but I hate the sound of them dragging over speedbumps even more. :D

[sigmfsk]

Steam McQueen said:

Fingo?





Couldn't resist that one. I don't know what they stand for. The F43 is in the same row with the spotlights? Does the "F" signify "Fleet" in this case?

http://www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum2/public/style_emoticons/default/icon_cool.gif

heheh! Fingo! Anybody have a FINGO?

> The F43 is in the same row with the spotlights?
This link
Mopar Fender Tag Decoder
shows the graphical layout of the tag, as well as a description of each field.
All the F's are on the same row:
999 U F33 F35 F43 F58

> Does the "F" signify "Fleet" in this case?
I didn't previously know that the letter code indicated specific package types, but it looks like F does stand for Fleet:
How to Decode your MoPar

According to that site, a G62 is a glass code, so that doesn't sound very exciting.

I thought that F43 might be the fast idle lock, but it looks like that is code N81:
BROADCAST SHEET DECODER
1969-1971 Mopar Option Codes
The fender tag doesn't have N81 - it must be rolled into the "K" vin, or fleet order somehow.

I found this '74 Fury that has some similar codes:
74 Pk Fender Tag Decode Fun. Assist? - Allpar Forums for Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth, and more
No a38 code. Has Certi cluster.
f58 = Road Runner Reinforce Weld (RR portion inaccurate)
f43 = ???

It has
TAG TWO:
Special Paint
Special Mask

my tag two has:
BODY IN WHITE
SPECIAL MASK
SPECIAL PAINT
SPECIAL ORDER

I'll keep my eyes open for F43, and still need to investigate everything that F58 entails. Then I can get a "BIFFO", the cousin of "FINGO".

thanks,
arthur

[sigmfsk]

Beefmalone said:

Mopars have a set of hipo cast iron manifolds that flow better than stock but you still get decent ground clearance. just an option. I like headers, but I hate the sound of them dragging over speedbumps even more. :D

Hi Beef:
I was very keen on the hipo manifolds, and ended up with, what I believe, is the best flowing set for a c-body. I outline my line of reasoning here:
http://www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/bluesmobiles/2448-c-body-headers.html#post109826
But then I saw that a 440 engine that made 487 HP with headers made only 412 HP with the manifolds:
Manifolds Vs. Headers - Dyno Numbers - Mopar Muscle Magazine
and these were the awesome hipo manifolds, not the regular clogariffic manifolds. So I bit my lip and have resigned myself to installing headers. And that's not the end of the sad looking story. There's 11" from the front of the 440 block to the hood (12" in the rear). So with a high HP intake manifold, there's just not enough clearance to fit an EFI 4-barrel style throttle body and then the police dual snorkel air cleaner housing. I could modify the housing and make it a drop base, but it would still impede air flow. With high HP and EFI (and not blasphemously cutting a hole in the hood), I think I'm stuck with this intake:
Edelbrock.com - EFI - EFI Manifolds - Chrysler
so I'm totally blowing the "keep the engine compartment looking kinda stock". At least the interior should look totally stock.

> I hate the sound of them dragging over speedbumps even more.
This is my first mopar - and consequently first c-body. I hope that there's enough room for me not to worry about header dragging. I'll be keeping this in mind!

your friend appreciating the ideas to get me thinking,
arthur

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[Steam McQueen]

sigmfsk said:

I'll keep my eyes open for F43,

Does your car have the extra dome light?

[Mr Mercer]

I ran my fender tag with that mopar decoder you posted . I knew what to expect from it and some didn't come up ( no data ) but one of mine said " rear window louvers " and " heavy duty wiring harness " . The harness could be because of the towing package , but louvers isn't that for a cuda/challenger ?

[sigmfsk]

Steam McQueen said:

Does your car have the extra dome light?

No extra light, and the mirror is glued directly to the windshield.

Maybe F43 is the custom rear seat covering (pic attached)?

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[sigmfsk]

Mr Mercer said:

I ran my fender tag with that mopar decoder you posted . I knew what to expect from it and some didn't come up ( no data ) but one of mine said " rear window louvers " and " heavy duty wiring harness " . The harness could be because of the towing package , but louvers isn't that for a cuda/challenger ?

I really don't know; my only suggestion is to double-check the codes. When I first ran the decoder, I got

M95-Assist handles
and then found that these are the handles inside the car above the door frame that you hold when the driver is acting crazy (or you hang your clothes on after going to the dry cleaners).

I checked and didn't see any evidence of assist handles, so re-checked my codes and found that my code was really
N95-NOx Exhaust emission control, California Emission package

[scatpack01]

awesome score! At least you got a good starting point on this one.

[PITT]

Sending photos of your "Bluesmobile ", we still get me dream!:D
Thank you

[sigmfsk]

Thanks Pitt! The friendliness, knowledge, and helpful ideas of all the people on this board make it easy to keep working on the project. Its an adventure!

I found a small prize today - what was left of the original build sheet under the front seat. I was simultaneously excited to see it, and saddened that much of it is missing. I guess I learned that I have an 05X9 horn pad, whatever that is.

The good thing about having no rear window is that it makes it easy to take pictures of the inside. Here is a pic of it after cleaning up today. The floor pans are a little rusty, but other than that its not too bad. I'd much rather have the floor pans rusty instead of the frame rails. The driver rear pan definitely needs to be replaced; I haven't made up my mind on the other three.

your friend in slowly but surely,
arthur

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[sigmfsk]

I've removed most of the interior, and it took some real work to remove the seat belts. I had to put a long lever arm (jack handle) over the socket wrench in order to get enough leverage to unscrew the seat belt bolts. For most of the holes, when the bolt was finally unscrewed, the bolt was much smoother than it should have been, as if much of its threading remained inside the captive nut.

So I needed to clean the holes for future use. The immediate solution was simply to run a tap through the holes, but I've found from past experience that this can cause the hole to then be too sloppy. I found that a tap should only be used to cut a new hole. To clean up an existing hole, a rethreader should be used.

> The rethreader is similar in appearance to a die, BUT, is ground to push threads back into place, rather than cut threads.
Difference between Thread Restorer....Rethreader...and Thread Chaser??? - Antique Gas Engine Discussion

I get much of my stuff at Harbor Freight Tools, but I wouldn't get precision tooling there (such as reathreader set). Not that it really matters, because I don't think they sell one.

I got this kit:
Craftsman 40 pc. Tap and Die Set, Master Rethreader
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952105000P?cat=Hand+Tools%252C+General+Purpose&pid=00952105000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Bolt-Out%252C+Taps+%2526+Dies&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

The local store didn't carry it, so I ordered it over the net. I ran the 7/16-20 rethreader tap through each of the holes until I was happy with the result. The tap is now worn. I thought I could take it back to sears and get a free replacement (lifetime warranty on all craftsman hand tools), but this thread
Difference between Thread Restorer....Rethreader...and Thread Chaser??? - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
has a post:
> Craftsman makes a decent set of thread chasers...and of course they're not covered by the lifetime warranty.
But now that I have nice seatbelt captive nuts I hope to not need to use a 7/16-20 reathreader tap in the near future.

your friend in slowly but surely,
arthur

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[sigmfsk]

Well here's a fine how do you do. One piece of paper shows a picture of the actual kit and says:
> If this Craftsman hand tool ever fails to provide complete satisfaction, return it to any
> Sears store or other Craftstman outlet in the United States for free replacement.

and there's another piece of paper that says:
> Craftsman individual taps and dies are cutting tools and have a limited life expectancy.
> Consequently, these items DO NOT carry the Craftsman lifetime warranty.

I'm not sure what to make of this; I'm glad its not a hot item for me. Here are some statuses.

Spoke with Bob's speedometer; next week they should have a quote on making 14o mph screens.

I got two e-mails back from Restoration Specialties. I'm thinking they're way busy, as together the e-mails didn't really make sense, but I hope to get things started with them next week - for front window pieces.

Thanks to this thread:
http://www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/bluesmobiles/9494-bluesmobile-floor-covering.html
I learned about black vinyl flooring from ACC, and ordered one.

I learned that (contrary to the owner's manual) police cars have only a single key for all doors, ignition, and trunk. So that's convenient.

The dash is in need of repair - more than just a dye job. I'm looking at getting the dash recovered at Just Dashes:
Mopar Muscle
I learned about them here:
Page-7 | A History of The Maximum Overdrive Kuda | Keisler Engineering - KeislerAuto.com

They custom color match, so before I send them the dash, I'll dye a big spot of it SEM Camel, so that the dash will be the same color as the rest of the stuff I'll be dyeing.
Thanks for this thread:
http://www.bluesbrotherscentral.com/forum/bluesmobiles/8791-diary-bluesmobile-3.html#post102786
> From what I have seen the SEM-Camel is the closest.

Ideas on what I should do with the metal portions of the steering wheel? (see attached pic showing rust spots) Do I disassemble the wheel and get it chromed, or sand it down, and paint it chrome. I have to dye it, but I'm not sure what to do about the metal. The turn signal lever and gear shift lever also have the rust spot problem.

thanks,
arthur

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[TK826]

Please shoot some pics of the flooring.
I'm interested in the texture... if there is any.

But of course, either way, these are still the best choices out there.. without finding an original.

- I've read that Just Dashes do nice work.... but cost $$$$$.

- I'm thinking that for the metal pieces you could probably clean the rust and spray some
Rust-Oleum chrome on it. I use it pretty regularly for other projects and, if applied with patience, it produces a really nice chrome finish.

The turn signal lever is the same style across a whole list of automobiles,
A and B bodies included.

With just a couple mouse clicks I found this one:
67-76 Mopar A B Body Dart Charger GTX Turn Signal Lever: eBay Motors (item 350249138724 end time Jul-02-10 13:09:29 PDT)

But these can be found for all sorts of prices, from quite a few places.